"
They swam, and after a long time Laieikawai began to wonder; then she
said, "This is a strange wave, man! We are swimming out where there are
no waves at all; we are in the deep ocean; a wave here would be strange;
there are only swells out here."
Said Halaaniani, "You listen well; at my first word to you there will be
something for us."
Laieikawai listened for the word of her surfing comrade.
They swam until Halaaniani thought they could get the crest, then
Halaaniani said to his surfing comrade, "Look toward the coast."
Laieikawai replied, "The land has vanished, Kumukahi comes bobbing on
the wave."
"This is our crest," said Halaaniani. "I warn you when the first wave
breaks, do not ride that wave, or the second; the third wave is ours.
When the wave breaks and scatters, keep on, do not leave the board which
keeps you floating; if you leave the board, then you will not see me
again."
At the close of this speech Halaaniani prayed to their god in the name
of his sister, as Malio had directed.
Halaaniani was half through his prayer; a crest arose; he finished the
prayer to the amen; again a crest arose, the second this; not long after
another wave swelled.
Pages:
238
239
240
241
242
243
244
245
246
247
248
249
250
251
252
253
254
255
256
257
258
259
260
261
262